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Building a Darkroom: Drywall walls

Contents

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Tools

• framing hammer
• Drill, and screwdriver bit, or electric screw driver
• Sharp knife to score drywall
• Tape measure
• Drywall trowel(s) - I like the one with 3 blades, 4", 6", and 12". If you don't get the multi-bladed one, you need 3 trowels.

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Materials

• 1/2" drywall
• Drywall tape - self stick with holes
• Drywall mud - the thick stuff

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Construction

1. Dry wall should be put on in two rows, not columns. Put the bottom row on first, it makes it a lot easier to put on the top row after it has somewhere to rest. It is usually easier to cut holes for outlets before you attach the drywall. Hold the drywall against the wall, mark the outlet locations, remove the drywall to a flat surface and cut out the holes. (obviously it is easier to put up the inside surface first, since the holes are almost all on the inside, and you can mark through the wall) **It also is easier to complete the inside before checking the electrical connections in case you need to get back into the wall later**
2. Place drywall screws about every 12" on every stud, if you use nails, place them every 8" on every stud (screws are much easier if you can use a drill). This applies to the walls.
3. You need to cut out holes for the ventilation fan, air conditioner, electrical outlets, etc. You can use a drywall saw, or score both sides of the drywall and hammer out the hole.
4. When you put up the ceiling, make yourself at least 2 ceiling jigs, like the one shown on the righ. They are made from 2x4's, the top piece is about 3' and the leg is 8'. They allow you to prop the drywall up tight against the rafters. Place drywall screws about 12" on every rafter, nails every 8".
5. When applying tape, I find the easiest method to be to use the stuff that looks like netting, and is sticky. You can put this on the wall before mudding. You can use the drywall trowel as an edge to tear the tape against. Put the tape in all corners and on all joints.
6. Apply drywall mud over the tape. Let dry. Put on another coat. Let dry. Sand the surface smooth. Now you are ready to paint.
7. I think it is best to paint the inside of a darkroom flat white, that way you have good illumination with a white light that is not so bright as to hurt your eyes, and safelight illumination can be shined off of the ceiling and provide good overall lighting.
8. After the paint is dry, attach the electrical covers, fan cover, phone jack cover, and light fixtures.

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Comments

"Nails go every 8 inches on center . Screws go Every 12 inches on center. This makes the dry wall Job legal. This is one thing I know because I have been a drywall installer for more than 10 years. If you hang your drywall top down it makes the wall tight to the ceiling and is easier to tape. If the ceiling is over 8 feet high stack It and then cut the top Piece in to make it tight for easier taping. If the wall is shorter than 8feet then you can stack it and cut the top sheet in tight."
- Mark

"I currently hang and finish drywall. Mark is right about hanging the top board first. In order to do this lean the board against the wall right below where it is going and start nails. Then hold board up tight to ceiling and drive nails in top. As far as tape goes mesh tape is for use on seams (beveled factory edges) and patches. Flats or 4ft butt joints and corners should be taped with paper tape. This method seals cracks and is easier to cover with 2nd and 3rd coat. Be sure to put mud on first, no dry or bald spots, apply tape and wipe with 5in knife as tight as possible. This should give a good base for the finished job. Also if mesh is used, a setting type compound should be used for the first coat. If you can't use this use paper tape on the seams also."
- Wes Auman

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Visitor Comments

lids first 5/8 rock ( code ) hang high unless there is gable end or off angle at top, go floor up to angle. prefill any voids with mud before you tape. you guys are not rockers or tapers no way

If the opposite side of the darkroom wall that you're sheetrocking is a lighted room, or in my case the rest of my garage, it is preferrable to hang the sheetrock vertically, as this places the seems directly over the framming. With this method the whole taping/ finishing/ sanding process becomes optional.While I prefer to tape the top angle, if the joint is tight it could be caulked along with the rest of the seams.As for the screws, or nails , they can simply be ignored, and painted. This both saves time, labor and material, as well as making it easier to locate the framing when you want to attach something to it. I see no practical purpose in taping and finishing a darkroom, other than to make it air and light tight.I recommend the following method:

For ceilings: Beg a friend to help unless the pieces are very short(5' or less). Otherwise rent a panel lift from your local equipment rental.Measure carefully, and allow 1/4" at the end dimension. Hang sheets across the joists and not along them. Nail the perimeters of the sheets( if working with a friend, or holding the sheet up manually) and screw the interiors 12" on center.Keep field seams( the long edges) and the butt joints ( the ends)as tight as possible.

For the walls: If 12' or under, stand the sheets on end. You may have to rip(cut the width dimension) the first sheet to place the recessed edge on a stud( put the cut edge in the corner), but unless your framing is not on layout(16" or 24" on center)and your first cut put the recessed edge in the center of the stud, the rest of the sheets should only have to be cut to length.Allow about 1/2" unless your floor is unusually out of level. Lean the sheet against the wall vertically where you want it, making sure that the bottom of the sheet is tight to the wall. Use a kicker( a small lever that you operate with your foot)to raise the sheet tight to the ceiling, and drive a nail or screw where comfortable at both edges of the sheet. You may find it helpful to draw lines indicating the framing on the sheet before nailing it up.Fasten the top and the edge adjoining the previous sheet first, followed by the bottom and the opposite edge.This will prevent blowouts.Continue in this manner until all of the walls are covered, then clean up scrap and extra sheetrock. It is easier and safer to do the final interior fastening in a clean room. Place screws 12" on center or nails 8" on center.

Finishing: If the joints are sufficiently tight they need only be caulked to keep out light and dust.I angle taped my darkroom at the ceiling and floor to keep it air tight.This is not difficult, but some people may be more comfortable with a caulking gun than a pan and knife.Any cutouts should be taped tight i.e. electrical outlets, pipes etc.When the seams are caulked or taped as necessary you can simply paint and be done.

I am a professional drywall mechanic with 20 years experience, and would be happy to answer any questions. Sincerely, J. De Fehr

DONT quit your day job,i hope drywall isnt your main sorce of income

\'DONT quit your day job\' -- That\'s a very rude comment. If you have an opinion like that, please explain it with credible reasoning. The drywall tips are perfectly valid for a darkroom.

The drywall advice from J. De Fehr concerning vertical drywall is incorrect and apparently he\'s been doing it incorrectly for over 20 years.

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©Copyright 1997-2007, Andrew Hughes

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