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Darkroom Furniture: Sink

Summary
Dimensions
Tools
Materials
Construction
Using the darkroom sink
Comments

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Summary

This project is a wet side processing darkroom sink made from plywood, painted with waterproof paint, and caulked at the seams. I have made two of these, the first lasted 7 years before I moved, the second was built because I have a much large space in my new home. (I believe the first one would have lasted another 5 or so years before needing replacement). The cost for the second darkroom sink, completed July 1997, was approximately $80.00 US. The same size in stainless steel would have been ~$700.00 US. You could make one out of fiberglass, but unless you are really talented you'll need experience with that before trying to tackle a darkroom sink. (I know, I used to surf and fix my boards myself. The first few times I made a real mess!) You could hire someone to do the fiberglass for you, but I read somewhere that someone spent ~$300 US to have that done.

I can't guarantee that this darkroom sink will last you 30 years, or 20 years, or even 10 years, but I know that it will last 5 years of very heavy use. If you had to re-build it every 5 years the fiberglass would have to last 20 years and the stainless would have to last 45 years before they'd be cheaper. If you use this darkroom sink twice a week I know it will last 10 years.

This darkroom sink is designed to rest on a sink stand or a base with storage.

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Dimensions

The first darkroom sink was 24" deep, 48" wide, 17" high at the back and sides, and 7" high in front.
The second darkroom sink is 24" deep, 86" wide, 17" high at the back, 9" high on the sides, and 7" high in front.
Your darkroom sink should be made to custom dimensions to fit your room. I have been very satisfied with the dimensions of 24" deep, 17" high back, and 7" high front. The sides don't seem to make much difference, but the higher the back and sides, the less likely you are to splash the walls (no duh!)

When figuring the size of your darkroom sink take into account the size print trays you will be using, how many you want to use, and what spacing to allow between them. For example, 8x10 trays are actually 9"x12", I think you need at least 2" spacing between trays to prevent splashes across chemicals, and I want to have 6 trays plus my print washer (developer, stop, first fix, second fix, pre rinse, wash aid), my print washer is 9" wide, plus 2" for spacing, I have a minimum width of 7 times 9" plus 7 times 2" or 77".

When I had the 4' darkroom sink I could only get 4 8x10 trays plus the print washer in the darkroom sink, or 4 11x14 trays, no print washer, I used the last tray as a pre-wash hold tray, and didn't really have enough space between trays to prevent splashing. It was tight.

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Tools

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Materials

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Construction

  1. plywood layout Cut the plywood to size, this is the layout I used for the large darkroom sink The sides are 24" by 9", the back is 87" by 17", the front is 87" by 7", the bottom is 86" by 24". The formulas for these sizes are below
    • bottom width = BW, bottom length = BL, plywood thickness = PT
    • sides are BW by side height
    • back is BL + 2PT by back height
    • front it BL + 2PT by front height
    • bottom is BW by BL

  2. support slope Mark on the inside of the front and back, the height of the bottom supports (the 1x2's). This should allow about 1" of room between the bottom edge of the plywood and the bottom of the support at it's lowest point. Allow a slope of about 1 percent (1" per 100"). I used 1" in 86" and got a little more slope than I really needed. Here is an exaggerated view of this sloping.

  3. supports Cut the supports to length. The lengths of these are tricky, make sure you can picture them before you cut them.
    • bottom width = BW, bottom length = BL, support thickness = ST
    • 1x2 support thickness = 3/4"
    • front and back supports are BL
    • side supports are BW - 2ST

  4. Build the box, using screws.
  5. Attach the supports, screw from the outside of the darkroom sink into the supports.
  6. Cut the drain hole in the darkroom sink bottom.
  7. Attach the bottom, screw from the outside of the darkroom sink into the edges of the bottom.
  8. Paint the entire darkroom sink with the waterproof paint.
  9. Within the time specified on the can, give the darkroom sink a second coat.
  10. After the darkroom sink has dried for a few days, sand lightly and paint a third time.
  11. Install the drain, with silicone caulk. Silicone caulk all the interior joints.

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Using the darkroom sink

Test for leaks. Wash after use. Enjoy.

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Comments

I received this comment, and think you also should have the benefit of his wisdom...
"...When it comes to the darkroom sink, I think it is better to assemble it with both screws and glue (put glue on the joints before screwing things together). Also I believe that the best paint is 2-component polyurethane paint. I would also recommend 4 or 5 coatings. Done this way the joints will be tight without caulking, and my guess is that it will last almost as long as a fiberglass darkroom sink..."
--Anders Olsson, Sweden
To a point, I agree with Anders (I think he's got a great name by the way, must be the same as mine in Swedish!). The polyurethane paint will do the job, you will need more coats than with Marine Varnish or Liquid Plastic, but then the polyurethane costs about 1/4th the price of either of the other two. However I have to disagree about gluing before and not caulking afterward. On my first darkroom sink, I did not caulk afterward, but relied on the glued joints and well coated wood. When I disassembled the darkroom sink, after moving, I saw that the wood had started to rot in a couple of places near joints (mind you, that was after 7 years of heavy amateur use! and I never had a leak). I had decided to make my next darkroom sink with caulk instead of glue, and caulk the joints.

I suppose the best of both worlds would be to glue during assembly, and then caulk after painting. Maybe after I've built my next one (in another 10 to 15 years, we will have decided on the best strategy) Thanks for the input Anders.

And this was received regarding using plastic to make the sink, it sounds like another good idea.
"I had some custom sinks made at a local plastics fabricator. Had two 6 footers made to my specs with multiple drains in case I rearrange things (grey pvc). Bought a separate sheet for the backsplash. Made a couple of stands from plywood and 2x4's. Life is now beautiful. All the plastic work for $200. Check your yellow pages for a local plastic fabricator."
--Mike Landkroon

Visitor Comments

The comments stated below are not necessarily the opinions of Andy Hughes or DarkroomSource

I have to agree with Terry Carraway on this. I can't imagine a better waterproofing method than West System epoxy. I used the 105 Resin and 206 Hardener with the 406 Colloidal Silica as a thickener to adhere to sink walls. There was plenty for three coats. This stuff cures to a hard plastic surface and seals all seams and minor gaps beautifully. Read the instructions carefully and I'm sure you will be very pleased with the result. Terrific stuff.
Contributed by   on 0000-00-00 00:00:00

BUILT MY SINK FROM A NEW RV GRAY WATER WASTE TANK. FOUND AT LOCAL RV PLANT (LOCATED ALMOST IN EVERY SMALL CITY THESE DAYS) NEW,DAMAGED, NOT USABLE FOR THEM FREE TO ME.. HUGE CHOICE OF SIZES IN THEIR DAMAGED GOODS PILE. TO FIT MY ROOM I USED A 26'' BY 60", HAD BUILT IN DRAIN HOLE AND ALL I DID WAS CUT THE TOP OFF, SMOOTH ROUGH EDGES (FROM CUTTING) ADD DRAIN LINE AND DONE..ABS MATERIAL.. THIS IS NOT A BLUE PRINT,BUT A SEED..
Contributed by   on 1999-05-03 00:00:00

Glad you used a "Gray Water" tank and not the "black water" tank...
Contributed by   on 1999-07-27 00:00:00

I guess that the first thing one must observe about Andy's sink is that it works. I have an article from an old Shutterbug magazine about a guy who made a darkroom sink from a large corrugated carton that originally held a refrigerator. He cut and taped to develop the final shape and when that was done, he coated it inside with fiberglass mat and put on two coats of resin. I have a problem with that deisgn because although the sink should be waterproof, the underlying structure is not terribly strong and is subject to damage if the corrugatred paper gets wet. The same thing applies to plywood. Unless all surfaces are coated (and re-coated as needed) it will evenutally be damaged unless the user is a scrupulous cleaner. (Don't know about others, but I'm not). In my view, a couple of suggestions come to mind. First, marine plywood, if coated with fiberglass and resin inside, and a clear marine varnish outside, will last for many years. Second; stainless steel. I have a stainless steel sink for my darkroom. It's about ten inches deep, more than seven feet wide and more than 30 inches deep. I paid $20 for it at an auction. Currently, I know of two smaller stainless sinks sitting in a surplus yard at $25.00 each. I also like the resourceful guy who suggested the option of plastic holding tanks. The raw tank, once trimmed to size, could be amended to include plastic sills, etc., made from plastic scrap (available at plastic fabricators for sale by the pound). I found that my stainless sink (it was originally a salad bar) had a one-inch drain hole. So, I loaded it up on the top of my car and hauled it to a local restaurant supply house and had the sink guy put in a dished hole to accept a standard kitchen drain set. That cost me $25.00. But, again, Andy's sink works. Regards,
Contributed by   on 1999-08-18 00:00:00

This was posted on rec.photo.darkroom, I thought it might be interesting.

I'm building my first wooden sink and found a Benjamin Moore product called Moorlastic waterproof coating. I put on the first coat last night over a primer coat of latex and it flowed like a dream. It will supposedly cover cracks, holes, etc. up to 1/16" anything over should be filled and sealed first. Comes in flat or semi-flat and can be tinted to color desired. Cost in Texas is $19/gallon for flat and $25/gallon for semi. My sink is 84" long and it looks as if there will be enough for at least 6 coats. Home Depot carries a product for waterproofing shower stalls, etc. which costs $17/quart. Quite a savings! Regards, Mike
Contributed by   on 1999-08-31 00:00:00

Thanks for posting the information about building a darkroom sink. I'm using the general plans for the sink I'm now building. However, I saw nothing about providing for faucets, which you surely have with your sink. I assume that one could add a three or so inch wide "shelf" along the length of the sink back, in between the back and the darkroom wall, and cut the holes for the faucets in that shelf. This would increase the installed width of the sink from 24" (using your dimensions) to 27" or thereabouts and I'm short on width space so I'd rather not add another 3" to the back. I was thinking of running the "shelf" along the inside of the sink back near the top so it wouldn't interfere with the space for the trays, then having the tubing for the faucets running up the outside of the back, then cutting a hole near the top of the back, running the tubing through the hole and up into the holes cut in the "shelf" for the faucets. However, I've never done any plumbing work and am not sure this would work. Among other things, I'm unclear whether the tubing (as I'm calling it - I don't know the correct term but I'm talking about the things that the water runs through in order to get from the water supply to the faucet) is flexible or not. I hope this description is clear. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Brian
Contributed by beellis on 1999-09-04 00:00:00

That's why the next page in the book is the "plumbing supply board".
Contributed by   on 1999-09-04 12:00:00

If you go to a boating supply place they will carry a line of epoxy materials called WEST System. This is designed to be used to make wood boats and be constantly immersed in water.

You can use it both for gluing the joints (adding a thickner will help these) and for water proofing the interior and exterior. Glued with epoxy slightly thickened and you will not need any caulk.

WRT the comment about the person building from a cardboard container, that is really just a mold. Using a cardboard box then using fiberglass cloth and mat and polyester (or preferbly epoxy) resin, after you get done, the cardboard is either soaked with resin and therefore waterproof, or no longer needed for strength or waterproofness.
Contributed by   on 1999-10-01 00:00:00

I found this in rec.photo.darkroom...

I finished my sink a few days ago and thought I would pass on what I learned. No doubt there are other good ways of going about it, but this worked for me. Total cost of a sink 72 x 22 x 5" was about $85. The most expensive component was a pine lamination 1 x 24 x 72 (actual measurement) at a local building supply house. It cost 32.55. They ripped it to 22" free of charge. Thinner laminations were available, but would need more support than I planned. Next pick three 1x6 boards. These need to be good quality lumber, straight and at least as long as the base. Don't trust the length marked on the bin. Epoxy for coating the inside. I bought a kit consisting of 30 oz of resin and 7.5 oz of hardener. Cost $18.97. This was plenty for 3 coats, which is probably overkill. NOTE: Read the directions and if it says anything about using it with fiberglass or remaining tacky, it is not the kind you want. You want plain epoxy resin. Tip: Get a cheap brush for each coat you plan to apply. A good brush is a waste with this stuff and no brush will survive from one coat to the next. Cut the 1x6s to surround the base. I cut the long pieces to be flush with the ends and then capped them with end pieces. *Try the fit!* A small error in cutting can make your corners hard to seal. Apply glue to the long edges of the base and lightly nail the side pieces in place. I used carpenters exterior glue just to be safe. When they are positioned properly, drill pilot holes and screw them down. I used 2" drywall screws, which work well for a whole lot more than drywall. Recheck the fit at the ends. You may need to plane or sand so the end pieces can fit flush. A small gap is easy to fill, but the smaller the better. When the end pieces lay flat, glue and screw them like the long pieces. When the glue is well dried, mix 6 or 8 oz (total) of resin and hardener. Brush a liberal coat over the inside, paying particular attention to knots and gaps. Pine knots tend to shed the epoxy, but it will stick better as it begins to set up. Gaps are surprisingly easy to fill. Refer to the directions re how long to wait to begin the next coat - usually about 20 minutes. Before the final coat, drill the base to fit a stub drain. I used a 1 1/2" plastic pipe with a small flange on one end such as is used under kitchen sinks. Bevel the hole so the flange sits at or below the surface. Coat the inside of the hole with epoxy, insert the stub and apply the final coat. Be sure to lay a good bead of epoxy around the drain. At the very last, level this bead with a plastic scraper or old putty knife. Lastly, seal the outside with more epoxy, varnish, or paint. If you don't, the wood will warp and crack the epoxy. That's it. You don't need to be an expert cabinet maker. This is a darkroom sink, not fine furniture. Legs will vary with the installation. One end of my sink rests on the lavatory cabinet, spans the throne and the other end is supported by 2x2" legs reaching as far as the tub rim. The enlarger sits on a plywood box that rests on the other end of the tub. Everything is quite stable and I can turn it back into a bathroom in about 20 minutes.
Contributed by   on 1999-10-26 00:00:00

I got my sink was found by my wife while it was sitting behind a McDonalds. The manager said it had been replaced and I was free to pick it up. It is not perfect, but it is 8 feet of stainless steal and has 3 tubs. It did cost me a box of Brillo pads and my appetite for the day. Nine years ago and still going strong.
Contributed by   on 1999-11-30 00:00:00

Hello! I just wanted to let people viewing this page know that I built a darkroom sink using Andy's specifications.....it turned out great. I also used his suggestions for the plumbing supply board. I painted the surfaces with a 2 component polyurethane paint and nothing is leaking. I also used wood glue and/or caulking on all the seams and screws while putting it together. I added a lower shelf to the sink to store extra trays, etc. The sink (with all the drains, paint, etc., cost approximately$65. Anyway, when I was finished with it, my husband almost had a heart attack....ha ha. He couldn't believe I put it together and it looked and works great! I owe Andy, because his instructions were easy to follow and helped me so-o-o much! Thanks! P.S. If anyone has any questions regarding my trials and tribulations in putting my darkroom together, please email me....I had to do everything from scratch....ha ha. Multiple visits to the hardware store...they got to know me well....ha ha. It took me all fall and part of the winter, but I finally made my first prints last week! WooHoo! Email DLPope345@aol.com
Contributed by   on 2001-01-15 00:00:00

the paint to use for a wooden sink is a neoprene based rubberized paint. there are several brands, but the cheapest one i found, recently, was Gaco Western (414) 542 8072 I used this type of paint 30 years ago to make two sinks and it was easy. i moved away from tose sinks within 5 years so i can't speak for any further longevity, but i noticed NO deterioration. this is a rubberized paint. it only needs 3 coats that go on in abut 3 hours and you can calk it or not. If you do, it needs special caulking, but Gaco will tell you which kind. i considered 2 stage polyurethane, but this was simpler and cheaper and i know it will work. the tech guy from Gaco told me that he knew of many successful darkroom sinks made from it. It gets put on over raw wood, you do not need a primer. If you choose not to use caulking, the paint itself seals perfectly. Years ago, i used only screws - no glue nor caulking, just because i did not know anything about building. And it was water proof for the five years I had it. I really think this is the easiest way to do it, requiring the least amount of construction sophistication and skill. I have also used marine and waterproof paints - meant for floors, and other things from major companies and these did not last. A gallon of this paint will do an 8 foot sink and costs about $70 by mail.
Contributed by   on 2001-02-07 00:00:00

To all those who recommend using epoxy resin: Polyester resin is 1/5 the price of epoxy, and it cures with 30 minutes, as opposed to 24 hours with epoxy. The price is a factor because we're talking $80 -$100 a gallon, as opposed to $20 a gallon, but both can be purchased in smaller quantities. Polyester resin is just as waterproof for a sink application, and it's less toxic. My personal feeling on why nearly everyone is excited about epoxy these days is because the manufacturers advertise this product more because they make MUCH more profit, and the catalogs like to feature expensive items for the same reason. So, save some bucks and use polyester. It's been around longer than epoxy, and for this application epoxy offers NO benefits. Have a nice day.

Philis
Contributed by   on 2001-03-28 00:00:00

I built a small sink a couple of years ago out of 1/2" particle board (not chip board or OSB). It has a smooth surface an both sides and works easily. The size was 4' wide and 27" deep with a 9" back and 5" sides and front. The really great thing about partible board is it is so absorbent. This can be bad or good. I'll explain. If you don't get it waterproof good, that's the bad.

I used Gorilla Glue (actually polyurethane non- mix glue from Wal-Mart) and glued the edges and screwed with 1.5" wood screws counter sunk about 1/8 of an inch. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Once the glue dries it is waterproof and hard. Use sawdust from your cutting the pieces and mix with the glue and a couple of drops of water (moisture activates the glue) and fill in the countersink holes. The glue will expand as it dries and you simple sand flat once dry. Now, once the glue has had a couple of days to really setup, mix 1 part Verathane and 1 part mineral spirits and soak the particle board with several coats of this mixture, repeating coats before it dries until it doesn;t want to take any more. I put about 4 coats of the 50:50 mix on mine. After it dries for a day or so, lightly sand all surfaces. I wiped down the sanding dust and sealed all inside joints with a light coat of silicone.

Next I used Marine Deck Enamel Paint for the cover coats. It cost about $10-12 a quart in my town and I used a full quart and a little of another for 4 coats over a 2 week period. I allowed the coats to dry completely for 2 days before the next coat. After it was all done, I sit the sink outside in the summer sun for a day or so to 'bake' the paint.

The result is a surface that feels like glass and is smooth and hard. I haven't abused it and it is still smooth as glass. I think it should last at least another 5 years, maybe more. I am building a new 13' x 14' darkroom adjacent to the bathroom darkroom that I had in my shop building. I plan on using the same process to build a new 8' sink. Good Luck.
Contributed by   on 2001-04-05 00:00:00

Some additional comments If making the wooden box type darkroom sink, it will be stronger if you use an adhesive as well as screws when assembling the sides. Use a waterproof glue, something like polyurethane (e.g. Gorilla Glue), epoxy or plastic resin. Regarding use of polyester resin instead of epoxy. He's right, for this application polyester would work just as well. It is more chemically inert than polyester but that shouldn't be an issue with a darkroom sink. If I were making something like trays I'd use epoxy or vinylester. If you can find it vinylester is less expensive than epoxy (but more than polyester). It was originally developed for chemical tanks and is very inert once cured. PS if you do use epoxy, it can be nasty stuff. Work in a well ventilated area. Wear plastic gloves and keep it off your skin.
Contributed by   on 2001-10-20 00:00:00

My father-in-law built an epoxy resin darkroom sink about 40 years ago. The sink is still fine, but of 8 photographers that he knew who built these sinks 4 developed bladder cancer. Coincidence? I am considering doing the same, but I plan to let it cure in a well ventilated area and ventilate the darkroom.
Contributed by   on 2003-12-14 00:00:00

I decided to maintain old darkroom in my basement. It was there when I moved. Newspaper pieces which I found shows its from 40s. I barely moved old stone sink only few feet away from door and I look for sink solution.
I started to look like stuff. Instead of spend much more money to photostores. You can find many things from dollar shops, etc. I saw big hard plastic tank HomeDepot. it says for storage but they are same place with cement, sand, mortar stuff. ( they are different than storage box, thick, black, hard plastic with no lid.) I think for mixing concreate. one is size of kitchen sink other is longer. I dont know any other size exist. its bottom can be drilled for a pipe also added frame and legs from wood ! I havent tried yet but they might be darkroom sink for small trays or possible to attach two of them.
Anonymously contributed on 2007-04-19 01:45:44

Here is what to not do when building a darkroom sink. I had never done any darkroom work myself, so I was unclear on the concept. I had two stainless steel kitchen sinks, complete with faucets, and a bunch of lumber. So, thought I could use the sinks as developing trays, and use Ansel Adam\'s lift and dunk method of print development. I put valves with below each basin, with a small hose faucet above them to use for emptying the chemicals back into the bottles. It was brilliant, except for three pesky details. 1. Sinks have no ridges, and when a print sinks to the bottom, it forms a tight seal. 2. Scratches abound. 3. I lost a few ounces of chemical each time I drained them. I have gone to placing trays on top of the sinks on wooden slats. I have to build myself a new sink.
Contributed by   on 2007-06-10 23:57:36

As a chemist for WEST SYSTEMŽ epoxy products I have a couple comments on previous posts. First, Epoxy does not cause bladder cancer. It is a sensitizer if a person is not careful and gets it on the skin repeatedly. Wear gloves. I would think it obvious that the developing chemicals used in the sink are a much more likely source of the bladder cancer. Second, the comment that epoxy is more toxic than polyester is also not true. Polyester contains the monomer styrene which is released during the cure process and is listed accordingly with TSCA. It is generally true that polyester is less expensive. Both products if used correctly cure to an inert plastic.
Contributed by   on 2007-06-14 15:44:04

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